Over the past couple of years, XTERRA Trail Running has taken me to many amazing events held in some very exotic locations. I’ve been very fortunate to race in such places as Kuloa Ranch in Oahu, HI, Bend, OR, most of the US and, now recently, Japan. The 2010 XTERRA Japan Championship – Trail Run 30km was held in ancient Oku-Nikko Marunuma, located in the northeastern area of Gunma Prefecture of Japan. This historic place is often referred to as “Samurai Country”, and was absolutely amazing in natural beauty, with several extremely steep climbs up to almost 9,000ft, including an ascent to the summit of Mount Nikki Shirane, single track around active volcanoes, crystal clear lakes, and through lush green fog blanketed forests, making this event by far the most beautiful and grueling race that I’ve ever competed in. I finished 55th among a very competitive field of 230 athletes, and climbed Mount Fuji the following day. The average finishing time was well over 6 hours for the 30km course.

Welcome to Japan!

Oku-Nikko Marunuma

Lake Marunuma

My overall experience in Japan was amazing! Marunuma was beautiful and I was able to feel the ancient history behind it. On Saturday morning, I took the subway from the Sakura Hotel Jimbocho, only a three minute walk from Jimbocho station, located in Central Tokyo, to Tokyo Station to meet Miwa of XTERRA Japan, along with some other XTERRA athletes, to catch the shuttle to Marunuma. Tokyo Station is huge and very new, with many similarities to New York City’s grand Central Station. The area surrounding Tokyo Station was booming, with many new buildings going up. The bus trip to Marunuma was exciting and we went through a lot of back country, consisting of large, steep, and jagged mountains. There was mist surrounding many of them, the roads were extremely winding at times, and the surrounding landscape was beautiful.

Sakura Hotel Jimbocho

Miwa of XTERRA Japan

Upon the shuttle bus terminating at the Marunuma Kogen Pension Village, I was greated by the owner of the lodge and some other athletes. Everyone was very friendly and helpful. The Pension was very traditional and included a great five course Japanese dinner and breakfast.

A Colorful Quilt at the Marunuma Kogen Pension Village

My Room at the Marunuma Kogen Pension Village

My Race Bib – No. 229

Kanko So Resort

Upon entering the building, Japanese culture calls for removing your shoes at the doorway. After the race, athletes cruised over to the hot source Marunuma “Lake Villa Ring” for some public bathing.

Pre race meeting and prayer at Marunuma Kogen

I was in complete awe as the shuttle from the Pension Currants lodge descended down into the valley. The first thing that struck my attention was the turquoise blue crystal clear lake and the fog hovering the surrounding mountains. It was so surreal. The entire valley was striking with majestic beauty and there was a lot of positive energy among the athletes.

At 7 a.m., following a pre race meeting and prayer, we were off at the sound of the horn! The trail run course itself was by far the most scenic and difficult race that I’ve ever competed in! It was much harder than XTERRA Trail Run Worlds and some of the views of the valleys and mountains were breathtaking! The course was a real meat grinder and definitely did your body in. I was completely in shock after we broke the first tree line only to see an extremely steep and narrow single track trail proceed up to the summit of Mount Nikkō-Shirane, a peak at 2,578 m (8,458 ft)! The climb up the first mountain was exhilarating and the surrounding beauty took my mind off of the grueling race course. It was difficult to even focus on the race with the eye catching views of a deep crater lake below, fog –filled valleys and lush-green forest throughout. Ascending the peak was a huge relief itself, and the descent was extremely challenging (unless you were a mountain goat)! There were large jagged rocks found everywhere that created hurdles for us as we descended the mountain via the run off channels.

A Japanese female athlete ascending Mount Nikki Shirane

A Japanese male athlete ascending Mount Nikki Shirane

However, the most unexpected part of the race came several kilometers later when we had to ascend another very large and rugged mountain! Most of the trails were very narrow with an abundance of loose rock, and many jagged boulders that created all kind of obstacles.  The first climb started shortly after the start of the race began at roughly 1,300m and went up to 2,700m, or almost 9,000ft!

The first 10k was so technical that it took us almost 1:45 minutes to reach (I was running with about 15 others who made up the lead pack at this point). We hit the first aid station at this point and then continued into the forest, via root and rock filled muddy trails, for several kilometers, before heading onto an exhilarating single track switch back trail up the mountain to the first tree line. The trail was very narrow and had many small cliff faces along the edges. There were also a lot of hikers on the trail and the comradery was exceptional. Despite language barriers, I had no problem telling that many people were giving us an immense amount of encouragement along the way. Many of the Japanese hikers were smiling at us, along with giving occasional thumbs up. I think that they were either impressed with us, or thought we were all completely insane!

The race was long, and provided all kind of excitement and suspense along the way. There were several unique aspects about the course and it took us through some spectacular country. One of the cool things about the race was that most of the course went through very remote areas, including an active volcano. The final 10km was mostly downhill and differentiated greatly from the first 20km. At the 2nd of two aid stations, we descended the mountains via steep ski trails, hit a single track dirt trail, and then circled the beautiful, turquoise- blue, lake Marunuma before heading back into the resort area to finish. I had a great final 10km, passing almost 20 runners, including 5 in the final 5km. Approaching the finish, I put in a strong kick and was able to make up two more spots within the final 50 meters, and was very happy with the last third of my race. I never realized that I lost that much ground on the second climb and descent.

Lake Marunuma

I must say that I never thought this course would have been this challenging and totally underestimated it. The consecutive and extreme climbs took quite a tool on my body, along with not having access to nutrition. During the second climb, I bonked very hard and was blacking out. Several Japanese athletes let me drink electrolyte based water from their bags. I should have known better, especially since the vast majority of athletes lined up at the start with hydration packs and various nutrition supplements! There were only two aid stations due to the remoteness of the race. However, the natural spring water along the way was like an oasis in the middle of nowhere!

XTERRA Japan Championship – The Finish Line

XTERRA Japan Championship – The Course Map

XTERRA Japan Championship – The Finish Line

My finish was 55th out of 230 and the official time was 5:24:07 with a pace of 17:23 minutes per mile (second major climb kicked my butt)! The average finishing time was well over 6 hours for the 30km course. My pace in this race was almost double than what it was for the 2009 USA 50 Mile National Championships held in the mountains of Boalsburg, PA, which was over 30 miles further, and on a very difficult course as well! I give the Japanese a lot of credit for their discipline and exceptional athletic ability. I was completely amazed by how competitive so many athletes were in such a grueling event. I now realize why this race is considered to be one of XTERRA’s most difficult courses in the world!

Kim and I

Kim is a Japanese athlete who’s originally from Tokyo that I met at the hotel in Manuramu. He’s a great athlete and has lived in Texas.

Upon completion, finishers were greeted by trout grilling over an open fire spit

This small shop at the Kanko So Resort had great ice cream and noodle dishes. Post race, I bought a large noodle dish that was absolutely excellent.

The XTERRA Japan staff was awesome and very helpful – especially Mai and Miwa. Miwa took us to the race from Tokyo station via shuttle. I stayed in a nice little lodge in Marunuma, which the owner made us a five course Japanese meal the night before the race, and also breakfast. Additionally, he also took us to the start the next morning. He was very nice, and the hotel gave us authentic Japanese robes as a gift.

Traditional Japanese Music and Post Race Festivities

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g40fn5K4Xug

Mt. Fuji from the Tokyo Bus near Fujinomiya Station

The following morning, after being back in Tokyo, I got up early and took the bus to Mount Fuji. Mount Fuji is a dormant volcano, which most recently erupted in 1708. It stands on the border between Yamanashi and Shizuoka Prefectures and can be seen from Tokyo and Yokohama on clear days.The ride out wasn’t too bad and it only took about one hour. I arrived at the 5^th Station (Gogoen Rest House) at 10:30 am and started my climb at 11. The fifth station on Mt. Fuji is located at an altitude of 2,305m (7,562ft) and is also the home to the Komitake Shrine – residence of Mt. Fuji’s protective god – as well as a large number of souvenir shops and restaurants. Most climbers choose to climb Mt. Fuji from the 5th Station. The hike from the 5th Station to the summit takes approximately 5-7 hours depending on one’s pace, so many climbers choose to start at 10pm and climb through the night to reach the summit in time to see the sunrise. The hike back down to the 5th Station takes from 3-5 hours. This was a very interesting place and there were a lot of climbers from all over the world. Things were bustling at the station with many people coming and going, unique little shops, some small restaurants, and people congregating together. Japanese people love mount Fuji, calling it Fuji-san. It’s a dream for many people to climb up Mount Fuji.

Hello Kitty Welcome!!

Japanese kids ready to embark on the journey of a lifetime to the summit of Mount Fuji

Views of the summit from the The fifth station on Mt. Fuji

The Komitake Shrine – residence of Mt. Fuji’s protective god

Happy Japanese Climbers

The gates to Mt. Fuji

Climbing Mount Fuji, especially less than 24 hours after an extremely grueling race, was much harder than I imagined. The air was thin and I felt dizziness starting to set in early in my climb. The mountain was very steep and most of the Yoshida Guchi Climbing Trail was a switchback, but some parts consisted of a steep vertical climb, which required holding onto chain ropes or gripping large rocks. It was very technical at times, but manageable without any serious climbing equipment. There were several huts along the Trail, which are used as overnight shelters, aid stations, and serve some food and drinks, but for a very high price. None of the shelters have any communication devices linked to those at lower altitudes. Along the way up, I talked to many hikers whom were very excited about their climbing experiences. Some asked me to pose in pictures with them, which was a lot of fun! The panoramic views were breathtaking and the general environment was very interesting.

Started my ascent up Mt. Fuji at 11 am on August 30, 2010 via the Yoshida Guchi Climbing Trail

Mount Fuji – Yoshida Guchi Climbing Trail

Mount Fuji – Yoshida Guchi Climbing Trail

Mount Fuji – Yoshida Guchi Climbing Trail

Mount Fuji – Yoshida Guchi Climbing Trail

Mount Fuji – Yoshida Guchi Climbing Trail

Making some new friends along the way

Panoramic views above the clouds from the Mount Fuji – Yoshida Guchi Climbing Trail

Panoramic views above the clouds from the Mount Fuji – Yoshida Guchi Climbing Trail

However, my climb to the summit almost turned fatal when I developed severe altitude sickness and almost completely lost consciousness.  I started feeling sick around the 8th station and took some rests, but then started to get very ill. I tumbled down to the previous station and collapsed, but got some portable oxygen, which didn’t work. It was so scary, my body was shutting down and went into a cold sweat, but luckily, the owner of the hut brought out medical equipment and a real oxygen tank, and I slowly recovered after about 30 minutes or so. I initially thought it was a combination of ascending the mountain too quickly, over exertion from the race, low calorie count, or possibly more. The day prior, during the race, I felt a little sick at times, which could have been a combination from over exertion and altitude – especially since a lot of the race was well above 6,000ft. My experience at the shelter was extremely traumatic, and I’m shocked that it shook me up as much as it did. The people who owned the hut didn’t speak English and there were some language barriers, which caused me to further panic when I first arrived. I also didn’t have enough Yen, so they refused to give me anymore medical equipment, water, or food unless I paid them. Fortunately, the presumed owner stepped in and provided the oxygen tank, sleeping bag and warming packs. I even got yelled at as I collapsed down onto a table! However, after I made my recovery, we were able to make arrangements via credit card for the goods and they gave some extra food to me for free. The people ended up being very helpful and friendly after all, and most likely saved my life. Climbing Fuji at the fast pace that I was, along with the over exertion from the race, all played part in the acceleration of my illness. Upon arriving at the mountain, I never let myself get acclimated to the thin air for as long as I was supposed to, which is at least 30 minutes suggested at base camp, and numerous rest at each shelter. Instead, I kept pushing through. Later after arriving back in the US, I continued to have some difficulties dealing with what happened, and also experienced numerous panic attacks.  After an ER visit a couple days upon returning from Japan, I learned that I actually suffered from High altitude pulmonary edema (HAPE), a life-threatening form of non-carcinogenic pulmonary edema (fluid accumulation in the lungs) that occurs in otherwise healthy mountaineers at altitudes typically above 2,500 meters (8,200 ft).

Mount Fuji – Yoshida Guchi Climbing Trail

Mount Fuji – Yoshida Guchi Climbing Trail

Mount Fuji – Yoshida Guchi Climbing Trail

On the descent around 11,000ft

On the descent around 10,000ft

Panoramic views above the clouds from the Mount Fuji – Yoshida Guchi Climbing Trail

Panoramic views above the clouds from the Mount Fuji – Yoshida Guchi Climbing Trail

The panoramic views above the clouds were absolutely amazing. I was very fortunate to have a clear day, especially since extreme weather conditions are common at higher elevations.

Despite the scare, the mountain was still an amazing experience.  I thoroughly enjoyed meeting so many people from all over the world. I met many interesting and nice people, who were friendly and made great hiking companions.

Outside of my time in Marunuma and on Mount Fuji, I was able to see a lot of Central Tokyo. Only a minutes’ walk from the hostel that I was staying at was the Tokyo Imperial Palace, Gardens, Shrine, Art Museum, and many of other fascinating places to see. The local food was excellent and I loved the noodle dishes and curry. My hostel was situated right by the Imperial Palace and Temple. The location was great, which made seeing a lot in a short time period possible.

The Yasukuni Shrine 靖国神社

The Yasukuni Shrine 靖国神社

The Yasukuni Shrine 靖国神社

The Yasukuni Shrine 靖国神社

The Yasukuni Shrine 靖国神社 is a Shinto shrine located in Chiyoda, Tokyo, Japan. It is dedicated to the kami (spirits) of soldiers and others who died fighting on behalf of the Emperor of Japan. Currently, its Symbolic Registry of Divinities lists the names of over 2,466,000 enshrined men and women whose lives were dedicated to the service of Imperial Japan, particularly to those killed in wartime. It also houses one of the few Japanese war museums dedicated to World War II. There are also commemorative statues to mothers and animals who were sacrificed in the war.

I left Japan on Tuesday, August 31^st from Narita Airport and had an amazing trip back. Shortly after takeoff, I was fortunate enough to view the sun setting over Japan and the Pacific Ocean. This view was remarkable. Hours later, my Air Canada flight, bound for Toronto, flew over southern Alaska during sunrise. Looking down and seeing the glaciers, fourteen thousand foot snow covered peaks, along with the icebergs, was a phenomenal sight that I’ll never forget.

Thank you to my family, my girlfriend Coco, friends, supporters, sponsors and everyone else for your amazing support and encouragement along the way. It means a lot and I’m very grateful for everything that you’ve given me. This trip was an exhilarating experience that I’ll never forget.

For more information about this event, or the XTERRA World Tour, please visit XTERRA USA or XTERRA Japan.